held off for along time on this one, thought for sure he was around the corner after seeing Hard master, seems like ages ago. This was one of the biggest pains in the ass, don't know why, but everything just seemed to go wrong during this one. Think i might have salvaged it a bit. Big thanks to Eric from Insidious Customs for hooking me up with the water slide decals, unfortunately I [LASER BLAST] my two attempts at the chest patch, so i\ll have to come back to that.

Trigate Creations cast head
ROc stone torso with the pockets removed and a sculpted belt
Hawk arms
original figures upper legs
hard Master lower legs

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some more pics

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sweet



so you painted the "E" on the lower leg ?

Nice. I always like Lifeline's design, and this is probably the best modern version of him I've seen.

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Really impressive stuff here, I'm glad you added a write up because you did a lot of work that comes out looking flawless and easily mistaken for "simple".

I'm also very curious how you handle the "E", it matches the upper leg perfect!

Very solid Lifeline.

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that came out very good.

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Thanks. I repainted the original legs and added a water slide rescue decal on the leg and knee

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very nice I too used the trigate head for my lifeline, very good job they did on resembeling LL.

Way to throw me a curve ball.

When you referenced Hard Master, I expected another figure that would be basically his body reaccessorized and maybe with new lower arms. That was my Lifeline custom and I've seen a bunch of similar takes since.

Yours, however, barely uses any HM parts and, by being very faithful to the original design, is actually a fresh approach these days.

Well done.

Absolutely agree. I was expecting the Hard Master approach. Your use of General Hawk's arms and Stone's torso really helps. Not to mention your dead on sculpting. But what really sets it apart is the waterslide decal.

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I'm slightly confused by the parts list.

Do you mean the upper legs are ARAH Lifeline v1?

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yes sir

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Great job! The figure looks production, and with the parts used for the legs, no paint rub problems there. How about the arms? Does the paint scuff/rub off with movement at the elbows and shoulders? If not, how do you get it to stick? I have tried several times to paint arms, but always seem to run into the same problem. I am afraid to sand the areas, as I don't want to ruin the detail or anything like that... Any tip would be appreciated.

Todd
Shakka85

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Thanks Todd. Unless your using RIT dye, I don't believe you can stop paint rub, but you can definatley minimize it. heres what I do

boil some water, dump it in the sink, put the part in their for a minute or so. Take a hobby knife and cut the peg on one side. pull the disc out and sand as necesarry. Put the part back in the water.(makes the plastic supple) use a needle and put a dot of glue on it, bend back the shoulder a carefully put the glue on the peg after you replace the disc. Squeeze the shoulder togeather and work the joint back and forth until the glue drys.

this works for the elbow as well. alternativley you can use the discs from another figure which has roughly the same color your going to paint.

latley I've been lazy and leaving the joints intact and using a small bur bit on my dremel on slow speed and sand the areas


I also sand hip sockets and knees.



when painting, I paint the areas where their is potential for joint rub first. (after washing the figure with warm water, soap and toothbrush to remove the mold release, which to me is the most important step for a good paint job!) using multiple thinned coats. once the figure is painted I take a needle with some form of crazy glue and thinly coat the areas where paint rub can occur to help protect the area.


hope that helps

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