I bought one of these planes a year or more ago on sale, for my son to play with. I told him that even though I was letting him have it, I would soon be customizing it (though he could play with the finished product also).

Initially, I thought that might just mean painting it, but I've turned it into a bigger project. Without revealing what I want the end result to be just yet, I have started some interior work, primarily the removal of the built in bench-seating for the pilots, the sound effects box, and the walls dividing the front and the back.





The plastic is a bear, and while I'll take the blame for user error or insufficient knowledge of dremel bits (I really only ever use it for figure mods which is easy enough), I really can't get the inside walls to smooth out evenly, in the spots where I've done the cutting. As a result, I'm preparing to have to do some interior wall work, which might look good anyway, at least restricted to the cockpit area.

I'm leaving that one half-wall up, as a divider of sorts, and also to be able to use the other side of it (behind where the new pilot chairs will be) as a navigator's station or some such thing.

Thoughts? questions? tips for getting better/smoother results on the interior walls?

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I like were you are going with this. Do some searches for C-130 Cockpit pics it may give you some Ideas on where to go.

If you don't have them, I would say you need to get these 2 dremel bits...

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories ... px?pid=114

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories ... px?pid=952

If not them exactly...something similar... Both the High Speed cutting bits, and Aluminum Oxide grinding bits work Great for me...I use ones like these hollowing out ARAH helmets...so I think working on the concave side of a curve rounded bits will help you get a smoother finish.

They also make those same types of bits in a cylinder shape...with a right angle...that makes getting a flat surface down to flat.

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Thanks for the tips.

Nova, I don't have that exact cutter, but the one I used did ok. The bigger problem on the cut away phase was just getting it in there for some of the tight spots.

That is the exact grinding bit I am using so I'm at least glad I'm not mako it hard than it needs to be. I'll just keep at it. The issue I'm having is that the plastic is so hard it will melt more than anything, then harden in place almost instantly. So I'm guessing technique is where I need to improve

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I've got a number of those high speed cutters, in different shapes and sizes. The spherical ones get used the most, with the smallest ones being good for trimming down figure joints to prevent paint rub. I've got one roughly the shape of that grinder, that I use for rough shaping.

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They make flat sanding bits too to clean up those edges.

I cut with these thin things to get perfect lines
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories ... px?pid=409
(Note these shatter if you screw up and fly everywhere so I slap two together to make them stronger and wear safety goggles)

then hit the edges with a

Sanding Band
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories ... ding+Bands

I've been working on a Playmobil boat so I had to do a lot of cutting.

Thanks again for the help. The biggest issue, as i've gone back at it, really was just the angles, and the limited space to get the dremel in there at all. I think I've got it smoothed down enough to do what I want now.

I especially like the affirmation from each of you that I'm using these bits the right way

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I tend to get as close as possible with the rotary tools and then go back in with hand tools (xacto, saws, files). Some times those tight spaces make 90 degree angle cuts impossible so 88 degrees will do and then go back at it with the other tools for the seamless look. Another thing you might want to try to unscrewing the whole thing to get at those areas easier. It won't solve all of your problems but it does help. Oh and get a ziplock baggie for all of the screws and parts that come off.

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oh yeah, it's 100% disassembled. I just placed the 2 halves back together for the pics. No way I could have got this far leaving it together.

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For an authentic look to the cockpit, the ladder to get onto the flight deck comes up the back behind the pilot's seat, in essence, the half wall is right, but should have been the other side removed. Granted this thing in nowhere near proportionaly correct.

A friend of mine gutted his and made the area where the guns are located more realistic looking to a real AC-130. If I can find pics, I'll post them. I've had two of these since they first came out and haven't opened either one up yet. Some day........

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Gotcha. But yeah, there's not enough space in there to go authentic. Luckily, authenticity is not a requirement of the project I'm going for...at all...

that's also why I called this C-130-esque. I consider it to be like the Flagg in that it maintains the same purpose as the full sized version, but is purposely smaller to fit the needs of a small elite group

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Try getting the flexible hose attachment. They're thinner than the regular dremel, so it can fit in tighter spots and the hose really helps too.

progress on the cockpit. Will be a bit cramped, but I have a Nav/Com station starting to take shape now.

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I thought I knew where this might be going.

Now I'm even more positive about it.

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well Hypno guessed it on FB, so let's see if you're right. Throw it out there, before I let the cat out of the bag

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