25th dye take.

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by BadAsh

So I was doing some experimentation this weekend with a some Buzzer 25th legs for my BA v.20 JCW figure and decided I'd toss my extra Stalker into the blue dye bath as well. It looks like the whole torso section doesn't take dye very well. After him sitting in there for a few hours, it accepted just a bit of the dark blue dye. The thighs were a close second on the dye blocking. The softer plastic in the arms and lower legs took it like a champ. The knees soaked it up the most. Just thought I'd post my findings for those for later tries.
*The actual figure is a bit darker than what came out from the pic. His knees are almost black and the arms are close to it as well.
Image

by raptor

Yep, I was afraid of that. That hard type of plastic is not good for dye.

You have to get it to an uber high temp to get any dye into it, and the parts will warp at those temps. Kneepads and gloves should be fine to dye...

Looks like dyeing is going to be a dying art...

- r

by Lance Sputnik

Yea, that't the same thing I got when I did my Stormbrawler custom. The body barely tinted at all and the arms/legs took it just fine.

by Darko

That's strange...I've successfully RIT dyed three 25th figures (including my black-armored Serpentor) and they all took the dye very well. I use the liquid version, if that makes any difference.

by joemichaels70

raptor wrote:..Looks like dyeing is going to be a dying art...

- r


:roll:

by raptor

Darko wrote:That's strange...I've successfully RIT dyed three 25th figures (including my black-armored Serpentor) and they all took the dye very well. I use the liquid version, if that makes any difference.


Which ones? It's going to make a difference, as there's no real consistency in what plastic they use for which part on any give figure.

Black is usually good for absorption in all but the hardest plastics. When nothing else works, black usually does. I generally use powder, but I can usually get black to work.

Still, I can see there being issues with dying many of the molds, which is what prevented me from dying a Stinger Driver green. ;-)

joemichaels70 wrote:
raptor wrote:..Looks like dyeing is going to be a dying art...

- r


:roll:


Thank you very much. *bow*

- R

by BadAsh

Darko,
That might be it. I used the powder on this one. I'll have to get some of the liquid and see if that helps. Of course I overdid the water to dye to make it extra strong.

Lace,
Same thing happened with a Combat Engineer Clone I dropped into the bath as well. Everything except the torso took it well, just tinted the torso the shade.

by Darko

raptor wrote:
Darko wrote:That's strange...I've successfully RIT dyed three 25th figures (including my black-armored Serpentor) and they all took the dye very well. I use the liquid version, if that makes any difference.


Which ones? It's going to make a difference, as there's no real consistency in what plastic they use for which part on any give figure.


Which figures? Serpentor, Snake Eyes v2, and Scarlett. And actually, I just dyed a Destro, too, and they all came out fine. But yeah, I did use black for all of them.

by viperlord

Storm Shadow's torso WILL NOT take dye. I intentionally cranked the heat to full blast and left it in a dye bath for 2 hours. I nearly boiled the pot dry, but the torso was white as snow at the end. Luckily it was the torso I had destroyed with my exacto trying to get it apart because it was warped as heck too :lol:

It's too bad really as dyeing was my number one customizing trick :(

by raptor

Yep VL, but now you have head dremmeling down, there's still places to go. You can also dye ams, legs and the other moving parts, then just paint the torsos to match without messing too much with playability.

Me - I'm having fun dressing up the figures in different web gear. I finally get the appeal of Barbie and 12 inch joes.. ;-)

- R


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