Chip Free Painting

I've been semi-successful so far, does anyone have any advice? Any of you longtime customizing wizards care to share?

I've never tried it, but a few guys and gals here have had success with RIT dye instead of traditional painting. The main concerns I have are A) the color intensity varies with the hardness of the plastic and B) being unable to get a uniform color due to different-colored base pieces... wonder if this could be rectified by applying a primer first? I have no idea.

Right now, I use the "Sharpie Trick," where I color in parts prone to paint rub with the desired shade, then paint over it. If the paint comes off, at least there's a similar-colored layer underneath.

That, or I try and use base figures the same color as the character I'm creating.

Like WLN said, if you can RIT dye, do it. Even if you just dye it a color similar to what you need and then paint over it. Otherwise, the best advice is to use good paints. I used to paint with apple barrel and other cheap craft-store acrylics. They chip like crazy. But then I switched to Tamiya which, while more expensive, hold up a ton better (better colors, too), and I've heard people say that Testors Model Masters (a bit more expensive than tamiya) work even better. After that, use a brush on sealant (I've found they work better than the spray-on varieties) and you should be good.

I'm working on a Scarlett commission that's going to a little boy and so I dyed the figure first and now I'm painting over the dye (black dye, charcoal colored paint) so it should hold up well. I've found on Sigmas that the color saturation for dying depends on whether the part has factory paint or not. Where there's factory paint, it won't be as dark, but it's usually just accents that can be painted over easily. I like the fact that the dye goes into all the joints and with gray or black paint on black dye it should mask rubs really well. I've not tried other colors. Obviously you're not going to get a dark figure to dye tan or something, so you're pretty limited with dye. On this Scarlett, I've sealed what's done with Future floor finish...and the next day I knocked her over, and she hit against the hard edge of a shelf...and the paint is unmarred. Eventually I'll go back and fix all kiddo's customs with that finish. On joints that rub a lot, I've boiled and popped the part (Sigmas, of course) and sanded down both the male and female join parts for more clearance.

I've had mixed results no matter what I try--one figure will remain chip-free, another will chip when I look at it, despite using the same methods--keep in mind I'm a cheap dude so I use mostly craft paints (Apple Barrel, Delta Ceramcote) so chipping is a more constant issue for me. Things that have worked mostly:

1. Seal the heck out of it. Plaid Matte Acrylic and Americana Matte Spray sealers are my two main ones I use; the key is to lay on a coat or two but not overdo it. This works about 85% of the time.

2. Model Masters Acryl Matte Sealer. Brushes on. Best to let your paints totally dry about 24 hours before applying or it'll sometimes take them off as you apply it.

2a. DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer. Also a brush on, I mix this into my paints to give them extra adhesion. Roughing the area up first, very slightly, helps that adhesion.

3. Primer. Lately I've noticed that a coat of Krylon gray primer--especially a light one--gives the paint something to really cling to, enough that I can skip the sealer.

4. Heat. I've boiled parts that were painted and had the heat seal the paint on; also used a heat gun. Again, hit or miss.


Yesterday I did a Google search for tips on stopping acrylic paint chipping but pretty much what you've read previous to my post is what I found, so all I can offer is what (sometimes) works for me.

My dad had some model masters, so far it seems to work on the legs, hips and torso but the molded shoulder arms on VvV Shipwreck no matter what rub off. I have a nice simple design but the damn paint is driving me insane. I read on Evil's site that you can use testors flat black on such jointed areas so I'm trying that, then I'll boil it all for a final seal.

This is what I like about this site; no snobbery, no rude quips, there's a real sense of community which is nice. I might never have gotten into this hobby as far as I have in such a short time on another site.

I've had some limited success treating my customs by the same rules they use for working on a polystyrene model. I disassemble the entire work, as far as I can. I wash them in some mild soapy water to remove fingerprint oils and other inhibitors.

Once dry, I prime all my pieces in Testors Flat Black spray paint. Recently, I have found that I get better adhesion of pigment using FW brand Artist Acrylic inks. They go on quite opaque, and are even thin enough to be used with my airbrush. After drying fully for a day or two, I seal with matte or gloss Krylon, depending on what look I am going for.

Which brings me to aerosol paints, and the airbrush. I am hoping it pans out, but I will start to use my airbrush over my hand brushes, and see which one lasts the longer.

Harder plastic joints, such as the knees seem to fair better than the softer plastic joints of the shoulders.

Ah yes, shoulder joint problems. Here's a good tutorial that can offer some advice for that

http://www.figurerealm.com/customtutorial.php?ID=35

it's made for ML figures, but it can easily be applied to Joes as well.

Ah yes, shoulder joint problems. Here's a good tutorial that can offer some advice for that

http://www.figurerealm.com/customtutorial.php?ID=35

it's made for ML figures, but it can easily be applied to Joes as well.

Yep, that's exactly what I was describing and it does work on 8 inch Joes, anyway.

On joints that rub a lot, I've boiled and popped the part (Sigmas, of course) and sanded down both the male and female join parts for more clearance.

I found that popping the parts gives me more access to the joint and I don't mess up everything around it in the process. Of course, you can only pop the elbows, wrists, knees and some ankles, so it doesn't help with shoulders and hips. I've also gone so far as to trim the part the disc slides under with an Xacto blade, but it's a pain.

Took my dremel to the arms, I'm going to use some testors gray primer after a light sanding of the body, let it sit 24 hours and then I'm gonna give it another whirl.

http://g-i-joe.50megs.com/paint.html

Sand your joints with a fine grit sand paper testors sells this little 5 pack of sand paper in any store that sells their painting supply's. What I do is sand all moving parts down a bit this way the paint grabs better plus by sanding the parts a bit that helps to keep any moving parts from chipping.

Then when you are done add some dull coat also made by testors it comes in brush on or spray. I think what brand of paint has a lot to do with it as well. My main brand of paint I use is MODEL MASTERS ACRYL paints they run about 2.99 for a 1/2fl.oz jar but I tell ya you can't go wrong with that paint.

That brand for holds well to posing most of the time I don't seal my customs when I use that paint and they seem to be chip free. well hope my little bit of info helps out .

Just went over to Model Master Acryl last week, the stuff is awesome, add some clear coat and it's pretty much chip proof.