Spray painting and articulation

I am making a custom for my son. I am using spray paint because it is the quickest way to cover all the joints with a solid color. Will this affect articulation and is it possible to spray paint a figure and have it be fully articulated?

It shouldn't affect it, if you don't use too many heavy coats (I'm assuming your worrying it'll muck up the joints so they won't bend?) The main problem you'll run into is having to move the joint after each coat to make sure you get all parts of it, and depending on the joint's tightness, the paint might chip off (a problem that seems to defy an easy solution to this day.) I spray primer almost everything I work on now and haven't had a joint clog up yet from it.

What type of figure are you using? ARAH, JvC, or 25A?

ARAH and JVC figs, you should dissassemble them completley...IE take all their screws out and then spray paint the individual parts.

thin coats will help reduce problems with the joints....The issue you'll face is that the joints will scrape off the paint you put over them...not so much the paint freezing up the joints.

Depending on color, you may want to consider working in LBC mode or trying RIT dye before you paint.

also,

flat colored spray paints go on thinnest, then satin, then gloss. Gloss thickness can build up very quickly.

[joemichaels70]

i'd recommend taking the sheen off the plastic before priming or painting --

one thing i've found that works excellent is 'goof off wipes'

they're like baby wipes, only goofier. and they have a nice orange smell.

plus, not only will it take off sticker residue, it will also remove M.Barrage's tattoo.

If you are going the spray paint route, you might want to try using the Krylon Fusion line of paints. It is not just good for vehicles.

I have used it on several JVC parts and found it to be excellent (especially around the joints). That specific type of paint is made to bond with plastic which really helps with chipping factor depending on the type of plastic you apply it to.

For example, I used a Satin Black on the Bombstrike legs and arms for a custom. The paint took especially well on the knee, arm and shoulder joints. I have not had any chipping to date.

Granted you do have a limited color palette but as long as you choose a decent base color, you will be good to go. Hope it helps.

If you are going the spray paint route, you might want to try using the Krylon Fusion line of paints. It is not just good for vehicles.

Not to be a dick...but do you have pics? Everything I've ever seen painted with Krylon Fusion paitns looks awful...high gloss, licked over, no sharp details...matching Rubbermaid looking stuff Fusion is meant to paint.

Normal Krylon paints I love...especialy Krylon Semi-Flat Black and Flat White...I prolly use 5-10 cans of each every year.

might be that I've just totaly ignored all things Fusion after seeing it's first crapticular results...but I wasnt' aware they even made it in Satins.

Save for arms, I airbrush or spraypaint all the pieces individually. This removes at least for the legs, the problem of joints being stuck.

The arms I just airbrush or spraypaint, and as soon as they are "touch dry", just work the joints wearing some food service plastic gloves in case I have to touch-up. Nothing screws a paint job more than a fingerprint.

If you are going the spray paint route, you might want to try using the Krylon Fusion line of paints. It is not just good for vehicles.

Not to be a dick...but do you have pics? Everything I've ever seen painted with Krylon Fusion paitns looks awful...high gloss, licked over, no sharp details...matching Rubbermaid looking stuff Fusion is meant to paint.

might be that I've just totaly ignored all things Fusion after seeing it's first crapticular results...but I wasnt' aware they even made it in Satins.

No prob. I will score wifey's camera and snap some pics. It may not be tonight though.

I am very picky about the Fusion stuff myself mostly because of personal trial and error.

You are right about the high gloss factor. I stay away from the gloss versions of the paints like they have cooties.

That is a mistake most people fall for just because they think that it is going to look so nice afterward.

I happened to stumble upon the satin black Fusion at my Walmart. Freaking thing was behind the regular Gloss black on the shelf.

I happened to stumble upon the satin black Fusion at my Walmart. Freaking thing was behind the regular Gloss black on the shelf.

I spotted it one time at Michael's, but every time since it seems to be out of stock (lots of the gloss shades though). I could have sworn it was flat, but I might have been the satin I saw. Was thinking about it for when I paint my SW fighters down the road.

Sorry for the delay. As promised, here are some pics of the Bombstrike parts I was talking about. Sorry but I still couldn't find where I put the arms but they came out just like the legs.

After I applied the satin black spray paint, I made sure to bend the joints several dozen times to make sure that there is no paint rubbing.

It actually looks rather dull. The shine you see is from my wife's camera flash.

Like I mentioned before, the application may be hit or miss but I have gotten some excellent results with the JvC stuff.

I have tried this Krylon stuff on the Corps figures and I can confirm that it does NOT apply well. Vehicles yes, figures no.

I am trying to find a spare classic ARAH figure to experiment on and see what happens.

Hope it helps.

one thing I've noticed with Fusions is that they need to be shaken very well, and kept at a good temperature. I will usually run the can under warm water for a few minutes, and shake it for at least 2 minutes. I've painted the same piece with the same can. The first time it will come out glossy and sticky. The second time it will go on nicely. It really seems that the conditions are a biggy with the fusion stuff.