Primer--is one brand better than the other?

Starting to get into using primer fairly heavily now, and I'm wondering if there's all that much difference between brands, say, Krylon vs. Testor's, outside of price.

I'm using Krylon, which works pretty good unless you put it on too thick (then it gets tacky), which is sometimes a problem for me as I spray outside and of course, there's GOT to be a breeze.

But is there any difference between brands? Or will pretty much any primer do the job? 99% of of this is used on figures, of both sculpt types.

Out of personal preference, I stick to Krylon, since it's the best quality primer I can find around here.

I like that it's inexpensive (especially if you pick up a can at Wal-Mart), and, most of the time, I don't have issues with tackiness or uneven coverage. For extra insurance against stickiness, though, I've been giving soft plastic parts (like limbs, heads, etc.) a light coat of acrylic paint, then priming, and it's worked well. The hard plastic doesn't have any problems taking the primer, so I doubt old school ARAH customizers will have an issue, since most of those guys are sturdy ABS.

If you don't have access to Krylon, or straight-up don't like it, I also really liked Pactra Prep and Citadel's primers back when there was a hobby store that sold them...

Thanks for the tip with the acrylic paint--I'm going to have to try that next time. The tackiness so far only shows up on soft goods if I lay it on too heavy, which I'm trying to avoid since laying it on light also seems to help the paint look more matte. Just need to be more patient when I do it...

I've been using the cheap 'ol Wal-Mart brand 97 cent primer, and haven't had any problems with new or old sculpt figures.

Thanks for the tip with the acrylic paint--I'm going to have to try that next time.

Glad to help.

One coat of Model Master ACRYL usually does the job. I usually use black because it covers better. The primer's gonna cover it over, anyway.

I don't use a "primer" all the time. I will generaly give every part a base coat using spray paint...but it's usualy the main color for that part. I've always found the less layers of paint the better.

I will tell you I LOVE Krylon semi Flat Black, I get it at Walmart, I've yet to have it turn out anything other than Perfect. And it's a pretty quality match for any Hasbro made Black ARAH parts.

[joemichaels70]

i use Krylon primer as well, including the one specifically formulated for plastic. And I, too, get the tackiness on the soft plastic/newsculpt stuff. One thing i've found that works real well is to give the piece a quick spray of matte sealant after the primer is 'dry' -- i find it gives me a solid surface to work on. I have, however, painted right onto the 'tacky' primer, and have had some luck with it helping to hold the paint in, but normally i spray the sealant on, as i wind up with too many fingerprints otherwise...

Hive Viper suggested Rustolium engine primer.
I use it, love it and swear by it.

Slight update to my original question...

Lately I've been switching between Krylon Primer and a flat white paint I bought at K-mart (one of their store brands); got the latter mostly because I was doing a white painted figure and it's just easier, but it turned out to not be a half-bad primer, either.

I'm noticing in a few places on both old sculpt and new sculpt the Krylon wasn't holding as well (it would chip), this was on spots like torsos, etc. It's not widespread, just a few figures out of the numerous ones I've primed, so it might be a good idea to wash down the parts first, remove any traces of oils, etc. before priming them.

[joemichaels70]

.. so it might be a good idea to wash down the parts first, remove any traces of oils, etc. before priming them.

well, they do suggest that on the can -- it also might not be tooo bad of an idea to wash the parts in goo-gone or nail polish remover to take the 'sheen' off, & prep the surface -- or even a 600 sand just to give the primer/paint something to adhere to. of course, i never do this, because i am impatient, and my customs show this...

well, they do suggest that on the can -- it also might not be tooo bad of an idea to wash the parts in goo-gone or nail polish remover to take the 'sheen' off, & prep the surface -- or even a 600 sand just to give the primer/paint something to adhere to.

I suppose I should read the can once in a while... I've washed parts down in the past for painting normally (without primer), using soap and water or rubbing alcohol too. Just not usually with primer, guess I've learned my lesson there.

of course, i never do this, because i am impatient, and my customs show this...

You and me both!