Head swappin question

What is the best way to modify pre-25th figure heads to fit 25th figure bodies. I'd like to use a VvV Snaked Eyes (the 1985-style head). I have a dremel. What do i need to do? Anyw help would be appreciated

This should be in general customizing I think. I say that because you are more likely to get the responce you want there. I do believe it has already been mentioned there as well.

To answer your question, I just cut the neck off following the bottom of the chin line (I save the necks as they are handy for other projects). Since the 25th necks vary in size and length you will want to start by drilling a small hole in the now dismembered head. Push the bit straight in and widen the hole a little at a time by "wobbling" the bit where it enters the head. This should make a round hole with a "cup" effect that should keep the head on tight. Try it for fit and repeat until it fits and looks right. Sometimes you will have to modify the neck itself to get the correct look, so be prepared for that .

Check out this tutorial at TGC. I've used this method and it works great!

Thanks guys, sorry for posting it in the wrong section

I posted this in another thread on this topic. Hope you don't mind the copy-paste:

I was going to start a new thread, then remembered this one was around. Sorry for the resurrection, but figured it best to keep the information all in one thread.
I've been working with this technique for quite some time now, and think I have it perfected, or at least enough to share. I consistently get the tight fit and the 'pop' whenever removing one of my modded heads from a figure.

Equipment you need:
Pin vise
X-acto knife
1/4" drill bit (called 'large bit' in the instructions)
1/8" drill bit (called 'standard bit' in the instructions)
1/8" masonry bit (called 'masonry bit' in the instructions)
Tape (masking tape is recommended, but any tape that leaves little or no adhesive behind will work)

For those not familiar with masonry bits, they are drill bits for drilling into brick, concrete, and other masonry. The tip has a flared cutting surface to it that is slightly wider than the shaft of the bit. Luckily for us (at least with Joes), this flare is approximately the right height and width to match the neck balls of 25th Joes. (Bit sizes needed vary depending on figure-style modding, hence not using the specific sizes in the tutorial. To determine the proper size, hold the tip of the masonry bit to the neck ball. The masonry bit with a flare equal to the neck ball is the bit you need. The standard bit you need will be the one that is the size of the shaft of the masonry bit. The large bit needs to be at least as wide as the neck, but not as wide as the head. The more pliable the material the head is made from, the easier it is to work with this method.)

Step 1: Trim the head to the proportions needed. For my customs, I follow the jaw and neck line, making an angled cut along the jaw line, then a cut from the back of the jaw to the hair line.

Step 2: Determine the depth of the neck. To determine the overall depth, hold the head up to the figure's neck and raise it or lower it until it looks natural. Place a piece of tape on the figure's neck at the point the lower portion of the jaw and the neckline meet.

Step 3: Mark your bits. To mark the large bit, hold it so the point goes toward the body of the figure and place the tip at the top of the tape (say that three times fast). Mark with a piece of tape on the shaft of the bit approximately 1/16" below the base of the neck ball. To mark the standard bit and masonry bit, hold each in the same fashion as the large bit, marking with tape at the top of the neck ball.

Step 4: Drill for depth. Place the large bit to the bottom of the head, centering between the two sides and centered between the back of the head and midpoint of the jaw. Drill into the head until the tape mark is even with the bottom of the jaw. Place the standard bit in the center of the just-drilled hole, and drill until the tape mark is even with the bottom of the jaw.(note: I generally hold the large bit in my hand, as I can turn it easily without the pin vise. I recommend using the pin vise with the standard and masonry bits, though.

Step 5: Bore out for the neck ball. Shove the masonry bit into the hole drilled with the standard bit, taking care to push it straight in and not twist it. We only want to remove plastic where the neck ball will reside. Once the bit is fully in, checked against the tape mark aligning with the bottom of the jaw, begin to rotate the bit, taing care to not apply forward pressure. I generally give ten or so turns clockwise, then ten or so counterclockwise. We don't want to actually drill into the head any more, just widen out the bore where the neck ball will be.

Step 6: Test. Pull the masonry bit out, again avoiding turning it as you remove it. Place the head on your figure and check for range of motion. If the head seems too tight, remove it and give the large bit a few more turns.

Having now successfully done close to twenty heads this way (don't ask how many unsuccessful perfecting it, just glad Dollar Stores carry Chap Mei practice fodder), I can say that it yields a head that fits as well as anything from the factory.

I hope my instructions are clear, but if not, let me know and I can try to do a pictorial version to accompany them.