You're going to have to shell out some money to get a scanner to scan in figures/parts. The <$200 scanner kits don't give a resolution good enough to really get good reproductions. Some of the photogrammetry software can do it with good pictures, but most require you use a camera that is in their database list and if it's locally processed, a beefy video card (pretty much Nvidia or nothing), and a ton of memory. If it's cloud-based, you'll be paying a subscription or per-scan fee which can stack up quickly.

If you're wanting to print items that will look good without a lot of post-processing, you're going to want a resin printer. If you're doing one-offs, just use a resin printer and some flexible resin. If you're wanting something to cast and remold, you can use any resin and just cast it. If you use FFF printing, the best you'll get with a sub-$500 printer is about a .1mm layer height (about the thickness of a human hair) unless you do a lot of tweaking. A resin printer in that same price range can get you to .02-.05 layer heights.

There are guys out there doing this (especially in the MOTU community) and I'm actually working on doing some scanning to complement my prints but still haven't gotten any results worth talking about yet.

Oh, if you're looking at an Einscan, then yeah, you'll be okay. Those things are awesome. I'd love to have one. Just wasn't expecting you to go that route since you'd mentioned using it for a few personal customs.

Resin really is the way to go if you're wanting quality. There's definitely some upfront learning to get good results but the results are so worth it. There are also various resins with different properties, so you can get similar results to the various types of filament. There are even some that are water-cleanup to cut down on some of the hazardous chemicals you have to deal with.

I will be honest though, I still use my FFF printers over my resin printer because I'm happy with "good enough" on most of my prints (and I like tweaking the printers just to see how far I can push them, results-wise). I'm going to force myself to start using the resin printer more just because the results are that much better. If you're looking at a scanner like the Einscan, you definitely want to consider resin to show off the scans.

Resins can shrink but so does your filament as you print, which can lead to warping and cracking. And if you're trying to print joints and sockets, you have to allow for that shrinkage in the design. Depending on your material, you can expect anywhere from .2%-1.5%, which doesn't sound like much but can be enough to be annoying. Not trying to dissuade you, just hoping to make sure you have enough info to keep you from being discouraged right out of the gate. If you do go with a FFF printer, definitely get one that is enclosed, especially if you're thinking you want to print ABS.

How large is the original object?