I'm on my tablet and sketched this idea out. Still trying to get the hang of this thing. The idea is that one half would be smaller with tabs on both sides. The angle would allow it to hook into the other side which would have slots where the tabs lock in. The spring would be locked in by the tabs and the other part would be thick enough for the rod to fit but not the spring, which would give the spring tension.

Just a basic idea I figured I would sketch to complete that thought with the spring. Might help to build on your project.

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DJ: I'm still trying to figure out a way to do the T-hook, but as small as it is, yet structurally critical, it's going to be tricky. I may have to use a cast resin for the T-hook to get the strength needed.

J-Man: I've been kicking around the spring concept, and your design is sort of what I've come up with, except using an extension spring instead of a compression spring. If my thinking is right, this would allow the assembly to hold itself tight independent of the torso. This would minimize stress on the plastic parts while allowing the legs to remain tight and the torso to move.

Yeah, I was thinking in reverse. The compression spring would be more of what's required. It's a neat option though.

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I see anything that reduces the articulation as being a non starter for me. So if there is no bend and twist to the hook, I wouldn't use it. Maybe a 2 part approach with a ball joint in the middle to retain the torso twist and move.

This would give the added bonus of being able to "unplug" the torso from the pants, and easily swap out the parts without a screwdriver. You could swap in other pants as required.

As Nova says, the elastic is a tensioner, not just a connector, so even with standard buck, the printout would have to be pretty much perfect to work without the legs getting floppy. That's certainly not impossible, but it would be... hard. Might have to increase the size of the lower ball joints a smidgen too to increase the tension on the legs or compensate for wear.

While you're at it, how about a neckball adapter that has a 25th style peg on it so that you can use modern style socketed heads on ARAH figures..

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This:



Also:

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Oh, I'm definitely not trying to make something that loses articulation. Ideally, this would add a bit of articulation, as it would allow the torso to be placed in positions it's not possible to hold using the O-ring. The more I mull it over, I'm thinking it needs to be something like this to work the best (parts are not to scale):


The spring between the threads and the T-hook will keep the legs tightened relative the waist piece, then the bell in the torso will be used to tighten the waist to the torso. The rounded bottom of the bell will allow the torso to rotate and bend on the waist. Want to swap legs? Unscrew and move to the next torso. This also removes virtually all tension from the waist and torso themselves, hopefully cutting down on cracks and breaks.


Also, I've thought about the neck ball adapter before, but run into the same issue as with this thing - the modern heads aren't all standard, so they won't fit on a standard neck the same way. I haven't been able to come up with a way to make the neck adjustable and still look good.

yeah, nova -- how about that neck converter?

with different length necks.

nova.

how about it.

that.

nova.

hi.

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MicroMark has some cating metal that might work for making a T-bar, and they claim it's cool enough to use a rubber mold. Dunno if you'd need the high-strength rubber or not. But if your plastic parts keep snapping, it's an option.

The "bell" method is interesting because of the lightened stress on the back connector. The spring solution seems overly complex, though offers the best flexibility. My Skystriker landing gear springs rusted off, but that was after 30 years.

Interesting, thanks for the tip. Wonder how durable it is. I'm imagining it being more like a pewter that would be a bit too soft, but I may have to check into it. The spring does add a level of complexity, so may not be the best option, but I'm keeping it open, just in case.
Really, if you tighten the thread tightly into the bell, it would have the same effect without the spring. It might come down to having both options. I am fairly committed to the bell, though, just because it removes all that stress from the back peg.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=35468&hilit=neck+ball

Huh...what? Feel free to add your input...

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I have concernes about the "Bell" adaptor. On golobulous cracks in the bottom of the torso are VERY common... Golobulous is the only ARAH joe who is held together by anything like the "Bell" adaptor.

The ARAH chest isn't designed for stresses at that lower chest like it is at the central screw core....

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I am curious how much it would cost to have a steel mold with would do a hundred or so at a time machined. in theory it should be a fairly simple machining for a machine shop. Once the mold was machined it would probably be able to cast you more Thooks then you would know what to do with before wearing out.

Interesting. I've never had a Golobulus, so just assumed he was held together with an O-ring. How similar to my design is the connector that holds him together?

Golobulus is a rubber cylinder with a larger flat piece across the top kinda like a nail head.

Been waiting on that since 07 myself.

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