we have a spray at work for rubber molds, I assume it is oil, feels slick. he have vulcanized rubber molds and some two part rubber. if shooting a wax and it's not letting go the spray helps.

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is this stuff flexible enough to use as a one-piece mold for pouring resin into? like if a person were doing an ARAH style head, could you mold around the original, then get the original out to use it as a pour-mold?

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I believe it is and in fact, I was planning on trying something like that this weekend. Are you familiar with the Smooth-On OOMO line? It's about that consistency and stiffness. My one concern is the heat generated as the resin sets possibly warping the mold. As far as the one-piece aspect, I think the worst case scenario is I have to dunk the mold with casting in it in some hot water to get it to release, making it a single-use mold.

I was actually going to do the Trakker head as a one-piece mold, but at the last second decided to make it a two-piece to test how well it worked with parting lines.

So, I ran out of resin and it's nearly impossible to take pictures of a clear item with a phone. But I tested a resin casting tonight (that was the surprise test is mentioned last night). It's actually UV-cured resin, not thermoset, so I can't speak for the mold holding up to the heat of curing, but it works great as a one part push out mold.

Here's half an Eel's helmet:










So my answer is that yes, it will work with resin, as long as the resin doesn't warp the mold.

I slapped some paint on it really fast to pull out detail. Now that I can really see it, I think I have a nice piece for a wrecked Cobra ship scene:







Again, this was a one part mold. I was basically able to invert the mold to get the piece out then flip it back right side out. If I had more resin, I could have made another copy or possibly put this one back in to fix it.

i'm taking the plunge I just ordered the blue stuff

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281141641334

can anyone point me to a "shrinking" formula? I have a couple heads i'd like to shrink.....

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http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/Castin ... Shrink.htm

edit: not a cheap entry : http://shop.sculpt.com/search/hydroshrink/

if you master the process, you will become everybody's new best friend overnight.

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thanks for the links. I also found these
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/hydro ... rospan-400

http://www.theengineerguy.com/Products_ ... ng-Resins/

all expensive......

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I'm hoping that I can use this stuff to make molds/casts of Valor vs Venom Leatherneck's sunglasses:

http://www.yojoe.com/action/04/leatherneck5.shtml

Right now, I have them on a Valkyrie/Boss Fight bash:

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glasses may be a perfect use for this type casting. I have some that I made from metal that I might try.

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so I used the putty recommended in the video and it's not working that well for the items that I've tried to cast. The sunglasses have come out too brittle or not hard enough. This has also happened to other small/thin items I've tried to cast. Can anyone recommend a better putty or resin?

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For small items like the sunglasses, buy some of those "UV Glue" pens you find in the "As Seen On TV" sections of stores. They're really just UV resin in a pen with a UV bulb on the end and don't work the best as a glue, but they're great for things like this. That's actually how I did that rough-looking Eel helmet above. The nice thing with using the UV resin is that it has a nearly infinite working time (as long as you're not working in a room lit with lights producing a lot of UV. You can easily get all the air bubbles out before curing it. You can also build up in layers to make it go faster.

This was on sale yesterday (back to full price now) but looks to be a UV-Resin w tints "pen" for crafting ... if I see it go back down in price, i'm going to pick it up:

https://www.amazon.com/IDO3D-Vertical-O ... 10&sr=1-28

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That's nifty, thanks for pointing it out; I hadn't seen it. Hopefully it goes on sale again or has a price drop. I'm tempted to buy a jug of printer resin (much cheaper than the UV pens) and either try refilling the pens or using a pipette to fill molds, then hitting them with UV lamps to cure.